David Jesudason, the 2023 Beer Writer of the Year, has spent his career redefining how we view beer, pubs, and inclusivity. As the author of Desi Pubs, an exploration of British-Indian pubs, Jesudason celebrates the spaces where immigrant culture and British traditions converge. Rooted in his personal experiences, Jesudason's work sheds light on how these establishments transformed from places of exclusion to thriving hubs of community and belonging. With a sharp eye for underrepresented voices and a passion for cultural storytelling, Jesudason is helping to reshape the UK’s pub landscape.

Desi Pubs has been hailed as “the most important volume on pubs in 50 years.” What inspired you to write it, and how do you hope it reshapes conversations around British-Indian pubs and their role in broader pub culture?

Growing up in a semi-rural town there was poor representation of any non-white, male group in the pubs I frequented. When I discovered desi pubs they opened my eyes up to what inclusive spaces pubs can be. For the first time ever I felt I didn't need to code switch -where a person adopts certain characteristics to fit in - and be my authentic self. Also, the food was a world away from any 'curry house' experience. This was a brown space unlike those joints but white people also made them their home because of their community emphasis.

Image: The Book “Desi Pubs” by David Jesudason. Source: Twitter Post.

How do British-Indian pubs reflect the immigrant experience in the UK, especially in terms of food, culture, and community?

Desi pubs are a microcosm of the British-Asian experience from the 1960s onwards. They first opened because of the hostility, segregation, and exclusion of other pubs but then blossomed into celebrated spaces for all. In 2025, in places, such as Southall and Smethwick white people claim them as their own and have very strong views on what a mixed grill should be. These people deserve to be celebrated too as they stayed in their area when their community changed and reaped the benefits of multiculturalism. Many metropolitan city dwellers - particularly in gentrified London - have no idea about this kind of ground-level work. But none of it wouldn't have taken place without desi landlords taking over failing pubs and making them inclusive spaces. 

Image: Lugger in Fowey. Source: Instagram post.

The UK beer market is evolving rapidly—what do you see as the key trends shaping the industry today, particularly in terms of consumer preferences and brewing innovation?

The evolution of beer isn't fast in my opinion. The same companies, with the same demographic of owners still control most of the market. For beer to truly evolve and find new markets then it needs new consumers - it can't do this if most of the people who own breweries and pub companies are white cishet males.    

With the rise of alcohol-free beers, how do you think this segment will impact traditional beer culture in the UK? 

Presently non-alcoholic beer is marketed solely at drinkers who want to moderate. The marketing and advertising are totally wrong and a waste of money as this is a rare and easy opportunity for beer companies to find new markets. At a press event, it was revealed by accident that the biggest growing market of non-alcoholic wine was Muslim weddings. This kind of space is what non-alcoholic brands need to try to reach instead of finding the omnipresent beer bros. 

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Beyond alcohol-free beers, what other emerging trends in beer (such as sustainability or flavor innovation) are most exciting to you?

The idea of trends is just marketing. What excites me is the community cohesion good pubs and beer can offer.

As a judge at the London Beer Competition, what criteria would you focus on when evaluating beers?

Beer judging is one of the most elitist facets of an already elite industry. Beer judging is usually - unlike on this occasion - voluntary so only the richest of so-called experts sign up especially if you factor in the array of expensive qualifications that supposedly make a person more knowledgeable about flavour. If you think about that, what all previous beer judging competitions have said is "richer people have better palates". So I think my criteria will draw on four decades of drinking beer, and numerous years spent talking to brewers and publicans. 

Image: London Beer Competition.

In your article “We All Want to Be Inclusive, But What Does That Actually Mean?” you discuss inclusivity in the beer industry. What tangible steps can breweries and pubs take to create more inclusive spaces for diverse communities?

I get asked this question a lot and the simple answer is education and without sounding pertinent the answers to increasing diversity and inclusion are available online and have been for many years. But breweries and pub companies need to ask themselves why frontline workers (bar staff etc) tend to be diverse but then their management isn't. Companies, such as Brewdog, have a rich diverse workforce but a white management. The answer is easy: create an environment that values people from diverse backgrounds and invest in them. This does require an investment in time, energy, and commitment - so few white decision-makers have this, which is a shame because it's low cost and high gain, especially from new markets.  But then they only superficially want diversity anyway. I've been giving versions of this answer for years and so have people like Garrett Oliver and Dr J long before me.

As Beer Writer of the Year 2023, how has your approach to writing about beer and pubs evolved over time? What do you feel is your most impactful piece of writing to date?

I'm a journalist first and a writer second. The process is about finding under-represented voices and trying to find a platform for them, Sadly, each year there are fewer and fewer platforms as publications diminish. There are, however, loads of outlets for stuff about "trends" which are usually press-release driven and of zero interest to me (and most readers). 

Image: Beer Writer of the Year and award-winning Desi Pubs author David Jesudason. Source: The British Guild of Beer Writers.

Conclusion

David Jesudason’s work marks the profound impact of storytelling in creating a more inclusive beer and pub industry. By elevating marginalized voices and celebrating the cultural intersections embodied in desi pubs, Jesudason inspires a deeper appreciation for the vibrant diversity of the UK’s pub culture. As he takes his place as a judge at the London Beer Competition, his perspective continues to challenge norms, pushing the industry toward a more representative future. His journey reminds us that beer and pubs are more than trends—they’re about community, identity, and belonging.

In conversation with Malvika Patel, Editor and VP, Beverage Trade Network

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